Eventually, we left on our overland tour the following day and crossed over into Namibia; from the second we crossed into Namibia, the entire landscape changed dramatically. We spent the night at Felix Unite, camping along the Orange River. The make the most of our day, Michelle and I decided to go canoeing down Orange River with some other people in our group.
To get to our start point, we were driven 10km through the deserted valley while standing on the bed of a truck – that in and of itself was a lot of fun. We were surrounded by gorgeous views during our leisurely canoe experience, and the water splashing us was very much welcomed on a sweltering hot day. 2.5 hours later, we completed our canoeing journey – sunburned, exhausted, and dehydrated.
We spent the evening watching the sunset at Fish River Canyon, which is the second largest canyon in the world (160 km long, 127 km wide, and .5km deep). To see the sunset behind such a vast canyon is really something but, unfortunately, it was a bit hazy. With cheese, crackers, and beers in hand, it was a good sundowners indeed.
The following day, we drove through the Zaris Mountains and continued along the Naukluft Mountains after lunch. We made it to our campsite and before even setting up our tent, Michelle and I ran in the pool – it was 40 degrees (104 Fahrenheit)! Later in the day, we headed to the Sesriem Canyon; Sesriem means “six ropes.” We went down into the canyon (1.6 km long, 30 m deep, and only 2 m wide in some places) and wandered around for a while before heading up for another sunset.
If you’re a hiker and/or in pretty good shape, do yourself a favor and climb Table Mountain via the India Venster Route. It is not for anyone with a fear of heights, or for beginner hikers. I wouldn’t recommend completing it without a guide or a local (thanks Alison!). It’s a stunning hike and must be started as soon as the sun is in the sky because the sun is STRONG!
The India Venster Route is considered the most dangerous and exciting route up Table Mountain. There are three main scrambles and, let me tell you, being only five feet tall is a major disadvantage. Nevertheless, I maneuvered myself up and through the scrambles, and had a blast while doing so. Even though there are only three scrambles, there are many large gaps and high steps. Expect to be on your hands and knees at places. Expect to do some rock climbing and rock scaling without the help of rails. Expect fantastic, rewarding views.
Three hours later, we completed the India Venster Route! Conquering Table Mountain was a powerful feeling, as it looks treacherous from a distance. Once at the top, you’re rewarded with remarkable views and a complete 360 degree view of Cape Town.
Travelers Tip: Take the cable car back down Table Mountain. Not only is it iconic, but the downhill route is steep, dangerous, and tough on your knees.
If you’re not afraid of the dark or small spaces, you must head to the Cango Caves (Klein Karoo) and sign up for their Adventure Tour! The tour includes the first two main chambers (a bit touristy), but then continues to four “adventure chambers,” and 3500 steps later you will experience: the Lumbago Walk, the Tunnel of Love, the Devil’s Chimney (67 cm/26.4 in wide), and the Leopard Box (which is only accessible when sliding on your belly, as the highest point is only 27.94 cm/11 in).
The Cango Caves have been known to man since the Early Stone Age and are South Africa’s oldest tourist attraction. The Bushman inhabited the caves for quite some time and left it as recently as 200 years ago, however, they only inhabited the entrance chambers because, supposedly, the dark parts of the caves are where the ancestral spirits are resting. Tools, knives, pottery, and paintings are said to be dated 10,000-12,000 years old.
The first chamber houses the biggest stalactite in the world (7-9 meters in height), and is 750,000 years old. The second chamber houses the “completed column,” which is a combination of a stalactite and stalagmite. The highlight of the Cango Caves is without a doubt the “Petrifying Weeping Willow Tree,” as it’s 1.5 MILLION years old!
The adventure aspect of the tour was an absolute blast, as we enjoyed spelunking in the tiny crevices. The Adventure Tour is most definitely not for anyone who considers themselves overweight or claustrophobic. Know what you’re getting yourself into before you go – in the lobby there are two scale models that you can climb through. Now picture yourself in a dark tunnel of that (minuscule) size…would you be able to handle it? If you think so, it is important to note that it is slippery and steep at times, with low ceilings. You will find yourself scurrying on your stomach under stalagmites and sliding head first through tiny spaces. It’s an experience you wouldn’t expect to encounter in South Africa – don’t pass it up if you have the time!
The day had come: Bloukrans Bridge. The World’s Highest Bridge Bungee Jump! Run by Face Adrenalin, the Bloukrans Bungee will give you such a load of exactly that: Adrenaline. After harnessing up, I followed our guide onto the pass below the bridge and, let me tell you, that is the scariest part of the entire ordeal. The metal grate under your feet is completely see-through, urging you to look down. All the way down. Typically, the way to conquer any “heights” activity is not to look down, but Face Adrenalin makes that virtually impossible, challenging you to conquer your fears and tackle the bungee head on. I, on the other hand, wasn’t so worried. Not in the slightest. A minute or two later, we made it to the middle of the bridge where there were at least 10-15 men there to help us out, tighten our safety harnesses, and pump us up with very loud music. I was, literally, bouncing with excitement. The men sat me down, wrapped pads around my shins to protect my ankles, and attached my second (backup) harness to my chest. Another employee came over to triple check my harness, and I was ready!
Two staff members appeared at my sides. I was to throw my arms around both their shoulders and hop over to the very edge of the bridge (remember, you’re ankles are tied together). You hop. And you hop and you hop, until at last you are standing on the edge. Slowly, you inch your toes until they are actually over the edge. I couldn’t wait.
At the count of three, I jumped with the biggest grin my face. This was it: I was free-falling off the world’s highest bungee bridge. Instinctively, I tightened my whole body, so I felt zero “jerk” once the bungee went taught (I knew I practiced flying trapeze for a reason!). I hung there upside-down for a bit, soaking it all in. I completed the jump that I’d wanted to do for many years. I just couldn’t believe how easy it was for me to jump off a 216m (700+ ft) bridge. After a few moments, a staff member lowered himself down, attached me to another harness, and repositioned me upright. I was slowly pulled up, lifted onto the bridge, and ready to do it all over again!
Face Adrenalin’s bungee is an absolute MUST for any adventure-junkie. It is worth noting that Face Adrenalin has been running the bungee for 23 years without any incidents; you will feel as safe as you possibly could while throwing yourself off a bridge. I have never felt more secure doing an adrenaline-inducing activity than I did with Face Adrenalin – and, trust me, I have many adventure sports to compare it to. You would be hard-pressed to find anything so exhilarating. Go face your fears.
Did you know that the closest living relative to a hippo is a whale? Or, that hippos actually walk the streets of St. Lucia on cooler afternoons? Well, we didn’t before taking a hippo and croc cruise on the St. Lucia Estuary, offered by Heritage Tours. Heritage Tours charters one of the smallest boats available on the Estuary, the Shoreline, which instantly made for a more personable experience. Dennis, our skipper, not only pointed out hippo families, but crocs and numerous bird species as well. While they do not guarantee crocs, they sure work hard to find them for you. In fact, we spotted three (with one of them being the second largest croc species in the world)!
Aside from the crocs, we so enjoyed sitting and watching the groups of hippos relax while virtually submerged underwater. It’s quite interesting – they look so calm and peaceful while laying in the water, yet they’re quite dangerous. For what it’s worth, the hippo is actually responsible for more human deaths in Africa than any other large mammal. We learned that hippos feed underwater, breathe underwater, and even give birth underwater.
The tour is suitable for all ages and the perfect amount of time. Dennis provided endless facts and stories throughout our route, all with much humor and enthusiasm. It’s definitely worth spending your morning in St. Lucia with Dennis along the Estuary! After our second day with Heritage Tours, it was clear that they are passionate about what they do and try to give their clients the best experience possible. Highly recommended.
A little over a year ago I sat on my bed in Buenos Aires overcome with emotion while watching the live coverage of the New York City Marathon. My dad was running it for his first time and I had wanted more than anything to be there to cheer him on. But I was 3203 km (1990 miles) away…
When my plans to teach English in the Galápagos fell through this fall, I was determined to be in NYC for the Marathon to cheer on Dad in person. It was extremely important for me to make it to the Marathon on November 2nd, but I also wanted to come up with a Plan B to encourage my wanderlust. I realized that the only fulfilling solution was to leave … 6 hours after the Marathon. Africa was awaiting me.
Being able to root on Dad in person was quite special as he was running for Team Boomer, running to improve the lives of those with Cystic Fibrosis. He was running for and encouraged by my brother who battles Cystic Fibrosis every day. Being there to share the experience with my whole family was truly emotional and I know that I made the right decision in postponing my travels. My kiss from Dad at mile nine made it all worth it!
And like that, Dad completed his second New York City Marathon and I was packed and on a plane to Africa.
After a 20 hour plane ride (plus another 6 hours in airports), I finally landed in South Africa to begin leg one of my seven week, three-part African journey. I was to roadtrip from Johannesburg to Cape Town along the coast. Let the adventure begin!
I was up with the sun after a short but deep sleep in the tent, despite virtually sleeping on the ground. We had a quick breakfast and went to our canyon hike at Ein Ovdat. The gorges of the canyon were a different, and welcomed, change of scenery from the desert that surrounds Masada. We had assumed that we were walking through the canyon. And we did…until it was time to go straight up. Through a series of ladders and stairs, we made it to the very top of the canyon and looked down from where we came. It was stunning.
We headed back to the Bedouin tents for our camel trek. The “Four Humps” rocked the caboose of our camel-chain. We trotted along, laughing and joking around for a bit before riding back to the tents.
Can’t say camel riding is the most comfortable experience in the world, but it’s an experience nonetheless. Naturally, I had to take a selfie…
We departed from the Bedouin village and went to Midreshet Sde Boker, the site of Ben Gurion’s grave. He and his wife are buried on the cliff overlooking the Zin Valley. David Ben-Gurion was Israel’s first Prime Minister and is commonly known as Israel’s founding father. On May 14, 1948 it was Ben Gurion who officially proclaimed the establishment of the State of Israel and was the first to sign the Israeli Declaration of Independence. What’s most interesting though is that after retiring from political life in 1970 Ben Gurion moved to Sde Boker, a kibbutz in the Negev Desert, and spent his final years there trying to fulfill his vision of cultivating the Negev.
After a quick falafel for lunch, and the discovery of guaraná in Israel (!!!), we stopped by a goat farm in the Negev, held baby goats, tasted delicious goat cheese, and reflected with the Israelis (as it was our last time gathered as a group).
Honestly, it sucked. It sucked knowing that seven members of our newfound family were leaving, and I felt like the dynamic just wouldn’t be the same after their departure – their presence, smiles, laughs, and viewpoints would all be sorely missed. We hugged them goodbye and waved to them from the bus as we watched them walk away.
We made it to Netanya, and as soon as we arrived we were greeted with an outstanding sunset right outside my bedroom window. I took in the beauty as I reflected on how I already missed my new Israeli friends.
That night we went out in Tel Aviv, and the Israelis just “happened” to show up in the same place at the same time. Hmmm, I wonder how that happened?! 🙂 We all sat around a large table drinking, chatting, and enjoying each others company for what we knew would actually be our last time hanging out together. There was a lot of love and respect going around that table.
We spent the following day in Tel Aviv. We began in Rabin Square, where Yitzhak Rabin, the fifth Prime Minister of Israel, was assassinated in 1995; he was assassinated by a radical right-wing Orthodox Jew who was against the creation and signing of the Oslo Accords (to which he won the Nobel Peace Prize).
We spent the morning wandering around Tel Aviv before ultimately entering Independence Hall – it was at this site that Ben Gurion officially declared the State of Israel on May 14, 1948 (despite being in the midst of a Civil War). The following day began the 1948 Arab-Israeli War. Armies from Egypt, Jordan, Iraq, and Syria all attacked the newly-deemed land of Israel. It wasn’t until 1949 that Israel signed armistices with everyone (Egypt, Lebanon, Jordan, Syria) except Iraq and Palestine.
After learning quite a bit about the creation of the State of Israel, we headed to Jerusalem Beach to relax on the Mediterranean. The water was beautiful and the sun was shining; it was some much-needed downtime.
We boarded the bus to Tiberias, ate, and had a fascinating talk about the West Bank. As I crawled into bed, exhausted, I rolled over to check the time and saw an urgent email from NYU Buenos Aires. I quickly opened it to discover that my tango buddy from my Buenos Aires program, Zake Morgan, had passed away during his travels in Nicaragua; it’s amazing how truly fragile life is. Zake brought laughter and smiles to everyone he interacted with and will be forever missed. I pray that his parents find peace and comfort in these difficult times.
Installment #1 – The beginning of my South American journey. Chronicling Argentina, Chile, Ecuador, Peru, Uruguay, and Bolivia. Thanks to those who joined me along the way!
I’m so thankful for all of the people that I’ve met throughout my incredible travels. From the lovely Aussie couple I met in Mendoza, to my awesome car-mates in Bolivia, to the friend I got stranded with in the desert, to my Russian-loving Canadian naturalist, to the crazy Irish lads, to my Ecuadorian “fairy godmother,” to the attractive hang-gliding Hungarians, to the bravest Swiss girl traveling the globe solo, to my Spanish-speaking-saviors in Buenos Aires, to the Couch Surfers in Uruguay, to my three beloved travel buddies, to my favorite circus monkey, to the insanely fun Brasilians (and my number one menina branca)…you guys rocked my world. I couldn’t possibly list everyone I’ve met along the way, but I love you all.
Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors. And the people there see you differently, too. Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.
Since we were pretty exhausted on New Year’s Day, we all slept in and headed over to Ipanema Beach for the afternoon. It was so hot that I spent solid 4.5 hours in the water (day 4 and, yes, still 114 degrees). We watched the sunset from the water and it was outstanding, even though we were getting tumbled the entire time. We were at the mercy of the waves, unable to withstand their power, yet enjoying every moment of it.
We woke up early the following morning, our last day, to head to Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain). We took the cable cars up and were greeted with stunning views of the beaches dotted along Rio’s coast. After a bit of looking around, we headed down and went to Santa Teresa – the old part of Rio de Janeiro with cobblestone streets and cutesy shops. Unfortunately the intense heat prevented me from doing some pretty wild hikes, although now I have yet another reason to go back sometime soon! We wandered for a while, stopping along non-touristy parks and beaches, and it was the perfect ending to my South American adventure.
The traveler was active; he went strenuously in search of people, of adventure, of experience. The tourist is passive; he expects interesting things to happen to him. He goes ‘sight-seeing.’
The Five Foot Traveler 