We were supposed to leave on our overland camping tour with Intrepid Travel at noon following our Lion’s Head sunrise hike. We boarded the truck, lunches in hand, and realized after a few moments that our truck wasn’t moving. Turns out, we weren’t purposely idle – the truck wouldn’t start and no one knew why. Our guide, Chris, asked us to get off the bus while they tried to figure out what was wrong.
Fast-forward five hours, and the truck still wouldn’t start (even with a new part). Chris came over to tell us that we would no longer be departing that day, as the bus wasn’t fixed. This is Africa.
Once settled in our new hotel for the night, we decided that we might as well make the most of our final night in Cape Town. What did that consist of? Watching sunset at Camps Bay, of course! We perched up on a rock and had a beautiful view of the sunset in front of us, the 12 Apostles (the back of Table Mountain) next to us, and Lion’s Head behind us. It was a perfect sunset with great people – a very positive end to my time in Cape Town indeed.
Initially I was bummed that I wasn’t going to have time to climb Lion’s Head for sunrise or watch the infamous Cape Town sunsets, but thanks to the truck breaking down, I was able to accomplish both. Everything happens for a reason.
Anyone that’s traveled with me knows just how obnoxiously loud my alarm is (but you know you secretly love it). It’s especially painful when it goes off at 3:45am. My new roomie, Michelle, tried to throw a punch at me but instead knocked over a water glass. Can’t say I didn’t warn her my alarm was loud…
Full of energy and headlamps in hand, some troopers from my upcoming Intrepid Tour joined me to go climb Lion’s Head for sunrise.Layz was so devoted to coming on the hike that he crashed outside my room on a bean bag…but unfortunately I couldn’t wake him, no matter how hard I tried!
We began our trek up in the darkness, while stopping to admire the beauty that is pre-dawn Cape Town; it looked truly magical. As we climbed through the fog and above the clouds, the views began to look like something out of a fairytale. As darkness turned to dawn, we were at the base of the rock face of Lion’s Head and knew that our only route was up. And so, we started the rock scramble. Racing the rising sun, we scurried up Lion’s Head to make it in time for sunrise. As we scrambled, the clouds began turning shades of pink and we realized that we were seeing the beginning of what looked to be a promising sunrise. We finished the long stretch up right as the sun was about to rise and watched it ascend behind Table Mountain with the clouds hovering below. I must say, it was one of the more beautiful views I’ve ever had the joy of witnessing, and quite rewarding as, for a bit of time, I was afraid that the sun would beat us to the top.
But then something crazy happened. Within a split second, the clouds enveloped the mountain, completely obscuring an outstanding sunrise. Table Mountain just disappeared. Within the mask of cloud, all you could see was a tiny, fuzzy yellow glowing disc. It was as if I was trying to focus on an image of a sun at the eye doctor before he put it into focus. It was hazy in the distance and remarkable to see Table Mountain just vanish piece by piece.
With the sun covered and a thick fog surrounding us, we decided to begin our descent. We were a little worried about completing the scramble backwards, especially since it was slippery, but as long as you go slowly and watch your footing it’s totally fine. After getting past the scramble, all is easy and you’ll be amazed by the views of Cape Town.
Travelers Tip: When descending, turn right at the big tree rather than left – it’s less tough on the knees.
If you’re a hiker and/or in pretty good shape, do yourself a favor and climb Table Mountain via the India Venster Route. It is not for anyone with a fear of heights, or for beginner hikers. I wouldn’t recommend completing it without a guide or a local (thanks Alison!). It’s a stunning hike and must be started as soon as the sun is in the sky because the sun is STRONG!
The India Venster Route is considered the most dangerous and exciting route up Table Mountain. There are three main scrambles and, let me tell you, being only five feet tall is a major disadvantage. Nevertheless, I maneuvered myself up and through the scrambles, and had a blast while doing so. Even though there are only three scrambles, there are many large gaps and high steps. Expect to be on your hands and knees at places. Expect to do some rock climbing and rock scaling without the help of rails. Expect fantastic, rewarding views.
Three hours later, we completed the India Venster Route! Conquering Table Mountain was a powerful feeling, as it looks treacherous from a distance. Once at the top, you’re rewarded with remarkable views and a complete 360 degree view of Cape Town.
Travelers Tip: Take the cable car back down Table Mountain. Not only is it iconic, but the downhill route is steep, dangerous, and tough on your knees.
For anyone that’s road tripping, you’re bound to hit Cape Point Nature Reserve, and for good reason! Definitely climb to the lighthouse at Cape Point, head over to Dion’s Beach, hike up the Cape of Good Hope, and observe the Mystic Cliffs as well. It’s truly a beautiful reserve, although a bit windy. The lighthouse, while iconic, seems a bit useless because of all the clouds that are always surrounding it, but it is said to be where the Flying Dutchmen haunts the oceans because the captain challenged a storm there and failed.
Travelers Tip: Bring a hat because there is no shade in the entire reserve.
From Cape Point, we drove through cutesy towns along the coast with breathtaking views, all leading up to the Chapman’s Peak Drive. It’s a fun drive with 114 curves offering gorgeous views of Hout Bay. Well worth it and definitely pull over to take a few photos like we did! Note that there’s a toll at the end of the drive for R38 (about $3 USD).
Prior to heading to our hostel in Cape Town, we drove up Signal Hill, which offered us our first views of Table Mountain! Man that thing looked daunting from below! Every day at noon a canon is fired off from Signal Hill, which traditionally was used as a means of synchronizing watches so that everyone was on the exact same time.
The Five Foot Traveler 